Worcester & Birmingham Canal

Worcester

The only thing most Americans might know about Worcester (pronounced Wooster or Wuster) is that it’s the home of the dark brown sauce in the long-necked bottle, and that’s only for those who realize the city is the seat of the county of Worcestershire. But it’s also justly famous for its cathedral, the many remaining Tudor buildings, fine porcelain, its role in the English Civil War and natural beauty represented by the canal, rivers and the nearby Malvern Hills.

note-iconTo the best of my knowledge, there is no commonly accepted demonym for people from Worcester. The closest I can come up with is Wigornian or Vigornian from the original Latin Vigorn.

Worcester is a wonderful walking city because it’s pretty flat with several streets closed to traffic and lots of shopping at the CrownGate Shopping Center and Cathedral Plaza. The central area is compact and you can easily walk to many of the historic sites in a busy afternoon.

Looking toward nave of Worcester Cathedral
Looking toward nave of Worcester Cathedral

Worcester Cathedral

The diocese of Worcester was founded in 680, but construction of the current cathedral began under Bishop Wulfstan in 1084. Of course over almost a thousand years there have been many changes to the cathedral, including the collapse of the main tower in 1175, the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII and the Parliamentarians damaging it during the Civil War, not to mention the for good or for ill Victorian restoration.

It’s notable not only for being beautiful, but also for the tombs of King John (he of Magna Carta and Robin Hood) and Prince Arthur (Henry VIII’s brother), and the premiere of Edward Elgar’s Enigma Variations. It’s open seven days of the week and admission is free, but climbing to the top of the tower for a spectacular view of Worcester costs £4 for adults and is on a limited schedule. Click here for a panoramic view inside the cathedral.

The Commandery

The last battle of the English Civil Wars was fought in Worcester in 1651. Oliver Cromwell’s New Model Army overwhelmed Charles II’s Royalists in the streets of the city but the new king (his father having been beheaded in 1649) escaped thanks to a desperate Royalist cavalry charge. The Commandery was Charles II’s headquarters just outside Sidbury Gate along the city walls. The site was originally an alms house built by Bishop Wulfstan but most of the buildings date from the fifteenth century.

Worcester gave itself the monicker “Faithful City” for its support of the Royalists during the Civil War, although some commentators point to the pragmatism of the inhabitants.  Click here for a map of the sites associated with the Civil War.

Tudor House Museum

Greyfriar’s House and Garden/Tudor House Museum

Greyfriar’s House is yet another black-and-white Tudor building on Friar Street, but it was originally the home of a wealthy merchant and not connected with a friary. It is now owned by the National Trust having been rescued from the destruction of World War II. The nearby Tudor House Museum (free) also adds to the charm of Friar Street, a street notable for shops and restaurants and many other buildings that survived the “Rape of Worcester” when city planners tore down many medieval buildings in the ’50s and ’60s.

Worcester Guildhall/Huntingdon Hall/Swan Theatre

The Guildhall is a Queen Anne era building that is available to rent for weddings and other occasions and during Jane Austen’s day served as the Assembly Rooms for dances and other functions. I mention it chiefly because you can get a guided tour of the Guildhall from Discover History, which as far as I can tell is a two-person historical re-enactor troupe that offers many guided tours of Worcester. I just find it charming such a thing exists.

Huntingdon Hall and the Swan Theatere, meanwhile, are performance spaces that are part of WorcesterLive, an organization that produces/sponsors live theater and music and in the winter months the Ghost Walk. Huntingdon Hall and the Guildhall are in the rabbit warren of buildings to the west of the High Street, while the Swan is farther northwest, near the Worcester Racecourse.

The Hive/Worcester City Art Gallery and Museum

Part university library, part public library, part event space, The Hive is a gold-colored building that defies easy description, at least judging by the website that fails to give a reasonably good explanation of what it’s about. You’ll find it and the City Art Gallery and Museum to the northwest.

What’s Worcester known for?

To the south of the cathedral you’ll find examples of the other product for which the city is known—porcelain—at the Museum of Royal Worcester. You can tour the galleries, have the epitome of afternoon tea and of course there’s a gift shop. The museum is open Monday through Saturday and admission is a reasonable £6 (£5 concession). You can also start a self-guided walking tour of Worcester from the museum although really you can start a self-guided tour anywhere you want.

Of course Worcester is most known for the famous sauce made there at the factory, although interestingly the US and UK recipes differ slightly as to the vinegar used. And predictably the American recipe is sweeter (using corn syrup) and has more sodium. I believe you can take a tour of the factory but darned if I’m able to find a link.

Worcester’s most famous son is Sir Edward Elgar, the composer best known for the march played at graduations. You can find his birthplace three miles west of Worcester or you can see his statue in Cathedral Plaza.

Festivals

If you’re in Worcester at the end of August, you can also enjoy the Worcester Festival (organized by WorcesterLive) featuring live music, street performance and historical re-enactments; or in September you can visit the Music Festival at Lowesmoor Wharf while renting your narrowboat.

Shopping

Friar Street, Pump Street and the High Street enclose Cathedral Plaza, which is a shopping area catercorner to Worcester Cathedral. Farther north on the High Street you can find Marks & Spencer and TK Maxx (which in the states we call TJ Maxx).

Malvern Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
Malvern Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

Malvern Hills

To the southwest of the city you can visit the Malvern Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (I just love that designation). The hills rise 1,400 feet, which gives a commanding view of the region. There is a ridiculously large number of things to do in the hills, including hiking, horse riding, fishing, mountain biking, hang gliding, rock climbing and even scuba diving (if you’re a member of the Sub Aqua Club).

2 thoughts on “Worcester & Birmingham Canal

  • October 11, 2021 at 7:09 pm
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    We are just on our way to Worcester from the Grand Union canal, where do you receommend in Worcester on the canal, meeting my mother there for her birthday, its the first time for her seeing our new boat, so want a lovely place to moor on the canal in Worcester?

    Reply
    • October 25, 2021 at 7:15 pm
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      Sorry for the delay in approving this comment. I’ve been busy working on a guide to the Kennet & Avon and let emails slide. I fear this reply may be too late to do you any good.

      I traveled the Worcs & B’ham by bike, not boat, but my memory is that all the moorings along the canal are very pleasant. You probably want to moor north of the Commandery. Any further south you’re in Diglis Basin Marina, which would require booking.

      Reply

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